Sgurr nan Gillean

Sgùrr nan Gillean

Sgùrr nan Gillean is a 966.1 m Munro at the northern end of Skye’s Black Cuillin. Its pointed profile is a landmark from Sligachan, but even its easiest summit route involves serious exposed scrambling. The historic name “Tourist Route” is misleading: this is a mountain for experienced scramblers and climbers, or parties with a qualified guide.

Summit and ridges

The DoBIH high point is rock by a cairn at NG 47162 25284, on a small, exposed summit. The Southeast, West and Pinnacle ridges converge here. A narrow slab and an exposed step across lie on the southeast approach. The summit is separate from Knight’s Peak, 914.24 m, and Third Pinnacle, 884.4 m, on Pinnacle Ridge. It is also distinct from the 764 m mountain of the same name on Rùm.

Southeast Ridge: the standard return

Start at the A863 lay-by near Sligachan, keeping the Mountain Rescue entrance unobstructed. Cross the Allt Dearg Mòr and Allt Dearg Beag bridges, then follow the approach into Coire Riabhach. Rough boulder and scree terrain leads through the corries to the southeast ridge. Steep rock steps and the narrow summit approach require deliberate scrambling.

Return by reversing the same ridge and corrie approach to the starting point. Walkhighlands gives 12 km, 985 m ascent and 5–7 hours for this complete out-and-back. Mountaineering Scotland describes the upper ridge as exposed Grade 2–3 scrambling. Downclimbing can be more demanding than ascending. Some parties need rope protection, with the skills to use it or a qualified guide. Do not descend onto the West Ridge unless equipped and competent for technical climbing and abseiling.

West Ridge and Pinnacle Ridge

The West Ridge is a UK Moderate rock climb, approached from Sligachan through Coire a’ Bhasteir and Bealach a’ Bhasteir. Its chimney or groove and exposed pinnacles require technical climbing judgment. A circuit can descend the Southeast Ridge and return through Coire Riabhach; UK Scrambles gives 10.1 km, about 1,050 m ascent and 7–9 hours for that complete itinerary. Returning down the West Ridge instead normally involves an abseil and a different route through Coire a’ Bhasteir.

Pinnacle Ridge, the northern ridge, is Difficult rock climbing, also described as Grade 3/Difficult by Skye Guides. Its towers include Knight’s Peak, and the full ridge includes an exposed abseil from Third Pinnacle. A return via the West Ridge adds further technical descent and an abseil before walking out through Coire a’ Bhasteir. These routes need competent climbing, ropework, abseiling and route-finding skills, or a qualified guide. Moderate and Difficult are technical climbing grades, not ordinary walking ratings.

Combining summits

Am Basteir can be combined with Gillean from Bealach a’ Bhasteir. The Gillean West Ridge ascent and return remain technical, and Am Basteir’s east ridge adds the exposed Bad Step, graded Difficult by UKHillwalking. Returning over Am Basteir’s east ridge requires negotiating that step again before descending the corrie to Sligachan. Basteir Tooth and Bruach na Frithe are separate objectives; wider Cuillin combinations require their own route and descent planning.

Terrain, weather and safety

Expect rough approaches, loose scree, boulders, steep rock and exposed ridges. Helmets are important where loose rock or other climbers create rockfall risk. Skye Mountain Rescue warns that fine-grained basalt can be very slippery even when damp with dew, while rock away from familiar lines may be fragile. Test holds and avoid dislodging stones onto others.

Mist makes the corries and ridge route-finding much harder. Local magnetic effects can disturb compass readings, so detailed mapping, navigation skills and independent position checks are important. Carry backup power and do not rely on one phone or navigation method. Strong winds, rain and poor visibility increase the seriousness of the exposed ground; choose conditions suited to the party’s ability and be prepared to turn back.

Snow and ice require winter mountaineering skills, suitable equipment including ice axe and crampons, and weather and avalanche judgment. Summer route grades and times do not apply in winter conditions. Leave a route and expected return time with someone. For an emergency, call 999, ask for Police, then Mountain Rescue.

Access and facilities

Sligachan is the route-start settlement at the A87/A863 junction. The usual lay-by is on the Dunvegan road near the hotel. Park considerately, obey current restrictions and keep the rescue base and other entrances clear. Glen Sligachan Campsite explicitly does not offer parking to non-residents, even for a fee.

Stagecoach’s published service 52 timetable links Portree and Broadford via Sligachan Hotel, with limited weekday journeys and calendar restrictions. Check date-specific outbound and return services before relying on the bus for a long mountain day. Follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code and current local access or stalking notices.

Sligachan Hotel and Seumas’ Bar provide accommodation and refreshments. The campsite has guest facilities and a small shop, but non-resident showers and waste-disposal services are not available. Check opening hours and access with the operators rather than assuming public toilet or campsite use. Carry the food and water needed for the mountain day.

Geology, views and history

The mountain belongs to the Cuillin’s intrusive igneous complex. Gabbroic rocks are cut by basalt and dolerite sheets and dykes; this is not simply a stack of lava flows. The mix of rocks contributes to the contrasting textures encountered underfoot.

In clear weather, the summit overlooks Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe, the complex Cuillin ridges, Glen Sligachan and the surrounding sea. The first recorded ascent was in 1836, when local forester Duncan MacIntyre guided Professor James David Forbes to the summit. The name is usually translated as “peak of the young men”; Mountaineering Scotland also gives “peak of the gullies” as an alternative interpretation.