Sgurr Dearg - Inaccessible Pinnacle

Sgurr Dearg - Inaccessible Pinnacle

The Inaccessible Pinnacle is the 985.8 m Munro summit above Sgurr Dearg in Skye’s Black Cuillin. Its usual East Ridge ascent is an exposed Moderate rock climb followed by an abseil. Reaching the neighbouring Sgurr Dearg cairn or the pinnacle’s base does not reach this summit. Independent parties need rock-climbing, belaying and abseiling competence and equipment; hillwalkers without these should arrange a qualified guide.

Summit identity

The surveyed high point is an upright boulder at NG 44409 21553, 985.8 m (DoBIH 1240). The nearby Sgurr Dearg cairn is a separate 978 m summit at NG443215 (DoBIH 1241).

Technical summit routes

These are planning outlines, not climbing topos or instruction in rope techniques. A full ascent includes the approach, the pinnacle climb, the abseil and the mountain return.

Via Sgurr Dearg west ridge

Start and finish at the parking opposite Glen Brittle Memorial Hut (NG411216). Follow the mountain path towards Sgurr Dearg and ascend its west ridge, with rough ground and scrambling. From Sgurr Dearg, descend carefully to the foot of the pinnacle’s East Ridge, climb the exposed rock ridge to the summit, then abseil down the short west side. Retrace the Sgurr Dearg mountain ridge and lower approach to the same parking. Allow a full mountain day, including the climb, possible queues and the descent. Rock-climbing, belaying and abseiling competence, ropes, harnesses and helmets are needed; otherwise arrange a qualified guide. The mountain’s west ridge and the pinnacle’s west abseil are different features.

Via Coire na Banachdich

Start and finish opposite Glen Brittle Memorial Hut (NG411216). Cross the Allt Coire na Banachdich bridge, pass Eas Mor and take the corrie path. Negotiate broken rock and scree to Bealach Coire na Banachdich, then scramble onto Sgurr Dearg. Descend to the foot of the pinnacle’s East Ridge, complete the exposed rock climb and abseil down its short west side. Return to Sgurr Dearg, reverse the approach through the bealach and corrie, then pass Eas Mor and recross the bridge to the parking. This is a full mountain day with intricate route-finding, scrambling and technical climbing. Independent parties need climbing, belaying and abseiling skills and equipment; otherwise use a qualified guide.

Base-only circuit

This circuit visits the pinnacle’s base, not the Munro summit. Start and finish opposite Glen Brittle Memorial Hut (NG411216). Cross the Allt Coire na Banachdich bridge, pass Eas Mor and climb Coire na Banachdich to its bealach; scramble onto Sgurr Dearg to view the pinnacle from its base. Return down Sgurr Dearg’s west mountain ridge via Sgurr Dearg Beag and Sron Dearg, rejoining the outward path above Eas Mor and returning over the bridge to the parking. Walkhighlands gives 8 km, 1,065 m ascent and 6–8 hours for this complete circuit. It excludes the pinnacle climb and does not reach the Munro summit. The rough rock, scree, exposed sections and difficult route-finding still require experienced mountain judgement.

Terrain and safety

Rough mountain paths, broken rock, loose scree, exposed scrambling and difficult route-finding on the approaches; an extremely exposed rock climb and abseil on the pinnacle itself.

• The East Ridge is graded Moderate as a rock climb, not as a walk. Severe exposure and an abseil require appropriate skills, equipment and judgement, or a qualified guide.
• Loose rock and scree, slippery wet slabs and intricate route-finding affect both the approach and return. Helmets are important where exposed to falling stones.
• Strong wind, low cloud and rapidly changing weather can make the climb inappropriate. Carry navigation backups and leave a route and return plan.
• Allow time and energy for the mountain descent after the climb; queues can delay progress. Mobile reception is unreliable. In an emergency call 999, ask for Police, then Mountain Rescue.

Fine, dry conditions are preferable for the exposed climb; wet basalt can be very slippery. Snow and ice turn this into specialist winter climbing and mountaineering, requiring suitable skills and equipment. Short autumn and winter days reduce the margin for the full return. Check a mountain forecast and local conditions before setting out.

Access and facilities

For the routes described, use the parking opposite Glen Brittle Memorial Hut, start grid NG411216. Spaces are limited and the approach road is single-track. Keep passing places, farm access and emergency access clear; the hut’s own parking is for its users.

There is no public transport to the Glen Brittle route start. Sligachan has bus connections, but is a substantial onward journey from the hut; arrange both outward and return transport rather than assuming a Portree–Glen Brittle bus.

Carry food, drinking water and mountain equipment. Glenbrittle Campsite near the beach advertises a shop, cafe and campsite WC/shower facilities during its normal 1 April–15 October season; check opening and access directly. Do not rely on these outside that season or treat them as toilets at the hut-side trailhead. Carbost has further supplies. Mobile reception is intermittent.

Follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code and respect local notices, including any temporary climbing restrictions for nesting birds.

Geology

The Black Cuillin belongs to Skye’s Paleocene igneous complex, with gabbro and basalt among its rocks. The geological excursion through Sgurr Dearg includes gabbros, troctolites, dolerite sheets and dykes, and other intrusions. Glaciation shaped the surrounding corries and sharp ridges.

Views and nearby summits

In clear weather Sgurr Dearg and the pinnacle overlook the surrounding Cuillin ridges and Coire Lagan. The mountain’s west ridge also has views towards the Small Isles, including Rum, Eigg and Canna. Eas Mor waterfall, Coire na Banachdich and Coire Lagan lie below the mountain. The Sgurr Dearg cairn is distinct from the Inaccessible Pinnacle summit.

Nearby summits include Sgurr Alasdair (992 m) and Sgurr Mhic Choinnich (948.1 m). Adding either changes the outing and requires separate route planning.

Name and climbing history

Sgurr Dearg means “Red Peak”. In Pinn is a commonly used abbreviation of Inaccessible Pinnacle. Charles and Lawrence Pilkington made the first ascent in 1880 by the east ridge. Charles’s account in the February 1888 Alpine Journal records the ascent with his brother. The pinnacle remains distinctive among the Munros for requiring rock climbing to reach its summit.